View Full Version : Kristen Wentrceck

4th June 11, 07:34 PM
Whatís the hardest thing to design?

Clothing is the most difficult thing of all. Thereís too many variables. Thereís grading. Holy shit. People say ďWhy donít you make it in this size?Ē You canít just put it in a machine and pop it out fast and get something of the same quality and feeling. You a lot to factor in.

If I make this in two new sizes, how much less or more fabric is this going to use each? Can this print be shrunken down if thereís a print? Do I need to order longer zippers? How will this affect the pocket placements? Will a person of this size be able to use the pockets the same way?

All this stuff. And itís funny too because I think a lot of people shit on clothing design. But EVERYBODY wears clothes. Itís something you canít overlook.

And the most difficult thing to hear, especially with clothing is ďThatís overpriced.Ē

I donít know how $4.00 shirts exist. The idea of a $4.00 shirt blows my mind.

Even without knowing anything you can think about it logically and come to understand that a price can be too low.

Even an American Apparel t-shirt, people will say ďThatís too expensive.Ē

Well, not really. I mean, there are materials. There are people with actual hands make them and cut the fabric. Thereís their health care. And shipping costs. And the wages of people in the actual stores working. And then rent of the building. You have to know when youíre buying a t-shirt at Wal-Mart and itís $4.00, someoneís getting screwed. Youíre not getting ripped off, someoneís getting screwed.

The difficult part is that I grew up a Wal-Mart kid. Iím a consumer too, low prices are great. But as a designer you get a peek behind the curtain and learn what sacrifices are made to get a price that low.


4th June 11, 10:31 PM

Dark Helmet
5th June 11, 12:31 AM
I think you didn;t read further in the article, Nob?

I recently bought what I thought were great pajamas for 9 bucks and for them to fall aprt on me after 2 months. You are not getting your moneys worth with cheap stuff. \I still have jeans I bought last uyear and I wear them often.

And she's probably right. The day of cheap clothes is over. But what the hell are people bitching about. I got leather shoes from Romania and a winter longshoreman coat for a 180 bucks that's great.

5th June 11, 12:46 AM
Price value isn't really what she's talking about. If that's the case then while a $1,000 suit may pay for itself by virtue of never needing a replacement, until your fat ass grows out of it, a $50 t-shirt will probably not outlast the collective lifespan of ten $5 t-shirts. And making a $50 t-shirt is no feat at all.

About a year ago I was in a Walmart and I saw $10 button front shirts. Not on sale, or discounted, they just cost $10. Let me tell you, it takes several hours of labor for me to make a shirt from start to finish, not counting the cost of designing it, the cost of the fabric, the cost of shipping the the fabric and the buttons and the finished shirt from factories to distribution centers to stores, or any of the other minutiae that go into selling a garment. In order for that shirt to cost $10 someone had to get bent over the table raw; knowing Walmart it was probably the owners of the textile and garment production factories, who are forced to pass the horrible rape down to their employees.

I don't know if the era of cheap clothing is necessarily over, but it inevitably will be. And it's going to be a good thing, because we need to get used to spending more money on things, owning less of them, and repairing them so that we can own them for a longer amount of time. As China and India become more affluent, and then as the countries that are succeeding them as centers of exploitable labor become more affluent, then these prices are going to become impossible. On the other hand, the newly wealthy populations of the rest of the world are going to create a demand that'll allow people producing higher quality things - clothing or otherwise - to operate on thinner margins and offer lower prices. This can only be good, in the long run.

5th June 11, 02:12 AM
It's not just screwing labour it's also mechanisation (batch cutting, auto stitching etc.) but it's mostly screwing labour.

And Nob, the invisible K in front of your username is really obvious.

5th June 11, 07:30 AM
I would not bet on clothing becoming more expensive to manufacture en masse in coming decades.

5th June 11, 07:40 AM
I only suspect that the cost of labor will increase significantly. This applies to everything made overseas.

I don't know what will happen with the cost of first world labor.

5th June 11, 07:43 AM
Clothing becoming allot more expensive across the board is a pipe dream of designers.

Even if it happened in the short term someone would come along to undercut everyone else and be the value line.

in the eighties and nineties I bet no one thought cars would come down in price, then fucking kia / hyundai shows up with cheap rides with long warranties.

5th June 11, 12:35 PM
Are you stupid?

5th June 11, 02:03 PM
I would not bet on clothing becoming more expensive to manufacture en masse in coming decades.

Agreed. We will just see the centers of cheap labor move a bit.

Eventually back to the states if we keep gutting our safety net.

5th June 11, 03:07 PM
I expect clothing manufacture for the mass market to use much more automation in future.

5th June 11, 05:06 PM
I also remember in the nineties when kiwi fruit were like 2 dollars each. Now I can get a dozen for 7 bucks.

5th June 11, 05:08 PM
If it was just a matter of undercutting the prices of your competitors, how does Rick Owens successfully sell t-shirts for $250?

5th June 11, 05:12 PM
Have you seen nob's taste in knitwear? Why are you asking him anything about clothing?

5th June 11, 05:15 PM
If it was just a matter of undercutting the prices of your competitors, how does Rick Owens successfully sell t-shirts for $250?
Because there are retards like you out there, only with money.

6th June 11, 09:22 AM
My body is not generic, therefore off the rack doesn't fit. I have to buy cheap clothes and then pay a fortune to customize them. Once a machine can do it...so much better.

6th June 11, 04:06 PM
Maybe they don't fit because they're cheap

6th June 11, 04:11 PM
You can get cheap MTM, itailor and stuff like that. heavily mechanised http://www.itailor.com/

6th June 11, 04:16 PM
Fat Tony is my tailor. Fixes everything...neck, arms, waist, hems. No problem.

I use to do hems with a stapler at work, but my wife won't let me do that anymore.

6th June 11, 04:58 PM
You can get cheap MTM, itailor and stuff like that. heavily mechanised http://www.itailor.com/

I'm not necessarily inclined to support these services, because I'm not sure that they take the extra steps in making their shirts and suits that make for a really great product. I don't have any problem spending extra money on fit off the rack, but I understand that not everyone feels the same way. I'm still looking for affordable options that don't skimp out somewhere.

Maybe during my upcoming break between quarters I'll write a little bit about how to look at a shirt and judge its quality.

6th June 11, 05:31 PM
I said it was cheap not good, but I have had a shirt from there, I designed a red evening shirt as part of my devil costume one Halloween to wear with one of my dinner suits. Quality was better than expected TBH, Especially the stitching, single needle seams and cross stitched buttons. Collar was fused not boned, fabric was a better weight then I expected. I got what I wanted at the time. I have not thought about buying a suit from them as a suit unlike a shirt is not a disposable item to me.