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View Full Version : Ask me a general automotive question and I'll try to answer it.



Sirc
31st May 08, 01:38 AM
In this thread, you can ask me general automotive questions ranging from, "How do I change _____." to "What suspension geometry design do you think is best for ______ kind of racing."

I'll do my best to answer your questions with whatever knowledge I have, or if I don't know, I'll research it up for you.

Riddeck
31st May 08, 11:30 AM
Hrmmm...


How can the collective 'we' shut your fucking mouth for once in this lifetime? I know we cannot reach through the keyboards and slap the shit out of you, but how can we, through this medium, get you to shut the fuck up?

Also do you carry hubcaps for a 72 pinto hatchback?

bob
31st May 08, 05:18 PM
Why are all asians such bad drivers? Is it genetic or a cultural thing? Thanks in advance.

Sirc
1st June 08, 03:33 AM
Why are all asians such bad drivers? Is it genetic or a cultural thing? Thanks in advance.

It's actually more a cultural thing. I mean, if you've paid any attention to Asiatic nations you'll come to find that their regard for other human life is pretty much absent. When they're on the road, they lack the drive to keep other's safe and for the most part think that the road belongs to them. Sun Kukwong could tell you all about it.


Hrmmm...


How can the collective 'we' shut your fucking mouth for once in this lifetime? I know we cannot reach through the keyboards and slap the shit out of you, but how can we, through this medium, get you to shut the fuck up?

Also do you carry hubcaps for a 72 pinto hatchback?

1. I would kick your ass in a fight anyday ladyboy. It's just that I think it's illegal for someone to beat the shit out of a retard. And if it isn't, then bring it on. Not only am I a better striker than you, I'm also a better grappler and have better takedowns than you. So stop the stupid internet e-thug bullshit, because I know you can't back that shit up and that I would wipe the floor with you and then make your mom cry when I send pictures of me holding you in a crucifix breaking your eye socket with my elbow.

2. They are 13" wheels stock, I believe. Any auto parts store will carry them. Just make sure it's the correct diameter. If you don't know, ask them to help you and they can measure the rims correctly for you. The diameter of the wheel cannot always be given by the outside face. Sometimes they use a lip and the diameter must be measured in various different ways. The easiest way to tell is by look at the tire rating on the wheel. For example on my rear wheel it reads 225/50/15. The 15 at the end denotes that the wheel is 15" in diameter. However, since I'm not a poor fuck like you, I don't need hubcabs because my wheels are forged alloy wheels.

Riddeck
1st June 08, 03:44 AM
It's actually more a cultural thing. I mean, if you've paid any attention to Asiatic nations you'll come to find that their regard for other human life is pretty much absent. When they're on the road, they lack the drive to keep other's safe and for the most part think that the road belongs to them. Sun Kukwong could tell you all about it.



1. I would kick your ass in a fight anyday ladyboy. It's just that I think it's illegal for someone to beat the shit out of a retard. And if it isn't, then bring it on. Not only am I a better striker than you, I'm also a better grappler and have better takedowns than you. So stop the stupid internet e-thug bullshit, because I know you can't back that shit up and that I would wipe the floor with you and then make your mom cry when I send pictures of me holding you in a crucifix breaking your eye socket with my elbow.

2. They are 13" wheels stock, I believe. Any auto parts store will carry them. Just make sure it's the correct diameter. If you don't know, ask them to help you and they can measure the rims correctly for you. The diameter of the wheel cannot always be given by the outside face. Sometimes they use a lip and the diameter must be measured in various different ways. The easiest way to tell is by look at the tire rating on the wheel. For example on my rear wheel it reads 225/50/15. The 15 at the end denotes that the wheel is 15" in diameter. However, since I'm not a poor fuck like you, I don't need hubcabs because my wheels are forged alloy wheels.

1) Will you wear the aluminum foil when you try to do it?

2) You clearly have not seen some great movies.

Sirc
1st June 08, 04:08 AM
1) Will you wear the aluminum foil when you try to do it?

2) You clearly have not seen some great movies.

I'll wear my ballet tights like I do to all my fights. And sorry, I'm pretty glad I don't share interests with you, people talk, you know?

Madgrenade
1st June 08, 08:25 AM
Does super unleaded give moar milage than regular? It definitly makes my tiny bike go faster.

Cullion
1st June 08, 08:32 AM
Talk to me about bio fuel. I haven't tried this biofuel stuff yet. Does it mess with acceleration or engine lifetime much ? If you've tried it, how much adjustment to your engine did you have to do ?

kismasher
1st June 08, 11:16 AM
i have to do some touch up painting on my wife's car. i already put a couple coats on and the scrape (which was all the way through the paint) is mostly filled in. it's maybe 1.5 or two inches long and a couple millimeters wide.

should i bother trying to sand this down or just leave it where it looks a little sloppy but is protecting the paint from further cracks / damage?

Sirc
1st June 08, 02:47 PM
Does super unleaded give moar milage than regular? It definitly makes my tiny bike go faster.

It's completely negligible. On a bike it's a little more prominent as 91/93 octane will give you a little more HP which while accelerating (The most gas wasting thing) will take up less gas to get you to speed.

You'll get more gas mileage by changing your driving habits. Accelerating full throttle uphill, and cruising downhill, throttle positioning (i.e. 10-20% throttle instead of having it halfway down/turned), correct gear shifting, and overall just smoother driving. I actually get better gas mileage if I'm running racing lines vs. when I'm not simply because the car has to work less to do more.



Talk to me about bio fuel. I haven't tried this biofuel stuff yet. Does it mess with acceleration or engine lifetime much ? If you've tried it, how much adjustment to your engine did you have to do ?

Biofuel, I think, is a great thing. It's great for gas mileage, but everything else it sucks. Well, I guess it's good for the environment too, but if you're that concerned, get a bike.

I personally haven't tried it, but I've seen people who have. There's some extensive modifications if you're trying to get a regular gasoline car to use it. Diesel cars are easier to get to run biofuel and they get even better gas mileage with biofuel.

It's cool, a nice alternative I guess, but I think they should really be looking into a new engine design or something rather than trying something just because it's "environmental" and wasting all their efforts in it.


i have to do some touch up painting on my wife's car. i already put a couple coats on and the scrape (which was all the way through the paint) is mostly filled in. it's maybe 1.5 or two inches long and a couple millimeters wide.

should i bother trying to sand this down or just leave it where it looks a little sloppy but is protecting the paint from further cracks / damage?

Have you tried buffing it? Buffing scratches sometimes work.

How much work are you willing to put into it? What did you use to touch it up with?

kismasher
1st June 08, 03:25 PM
Have you tried buffing it? Buffing scratches sometimes work.

How much work are you willing to put into it? What did you use to touch it up with?

nah, the scratch was all the way through the paint.

i touched it up with a kit i got from the dealer. just a little bottle of paint and a teeny-tiny brush.

mostly, i'm just wanting to know if trying to sand it by hand will be worth the effort or if i'll just wind up screwing it up more. i'm not really wanting to do a whole lot of work either. unless you were really looking at the car you wouldn't even notice where i touched it up.

Sirc
1st June 08, 03:38 PM
nah, the scratch was all the way through the paint.

i touched it up with a kit i got from the dealer. just a little bottle of paint and a teeny-tiny brush.

mostly, i'm just wanting to know if trying to sand it by hand will be worth the effort or if i'll just wind up screwing it up more. i'm not really wanting to do a whole lot of work either. unless you were really looking at the car you wouldn't even notice where i touched it up.

Well the best way to fix a touch up is:

- Get a spray paint bottle of the color.
- Sand paper in three grits. 400, 600, 800.

Sand it down with the 400 then the 600 then the 800 washing it down with water inbetween. When you get to the 800, sand it while pouring water on the spot you're sanding. Until it's baby silky smooth.

Then mask of the area you've sanded and spray it with the spray paint bottle. This shouldn't take you more than an hour if it's that small. Make sure not to sand more than what's scratched and let it dry for a day before taking it outside of the garage.

Sanding comes before painting.

Madgrenade
3rd June 08, 07:30 AM
I keep seeing adverts saying that I can run an engine on a mix of petrol and water. Is there any truth to this or is it, as they say, bullshido?

Scrapper
3rd June 08, 01:48 PM
No. You can't. A littel water in the fuel won't do much but make your car run shitty, and a lot of water will kill the motor permanently.

Don't try it.


Oh mighty Sarcastro:

-Can you give me advice on how to run an electric choke of the stock switched ignition in my 69 Cutlass without burning out the ignition ground?

-If I switch to 4:11 gears from 3:08's in my 10-bolt differential, how much more torque can I make at the rear wheels, and is it worth it?

-If I swap out the stock heads in my 350 Rocket with 202 fuelie heads from a corvette (same year) will I get more horsepower at lower RPM or will I just blow giant fireballs out of my tailpipe?

-How tough is it to convert drums to discs on a 69 Cutlass?

Sirc
3rd June 08, 03:26 PM
No. You can't. A littel water in the fuel won't do much but make your car run shitty, and a lot of water will kill the motor permanently.

Don't try it.


Oh mighty Sarcastro:

-Can you give me advice on how to run an electric choke of the stock switched ignition in my 69 Cutlass without burning out the ignition ground?

-If I switch to 4:11 gears from 3:08's in my 10-bolt differential, how much more torque can I make at the rear wheels, and is it worth it?

-If I swap out the stock heads in my 350 Rocket with 202 fuelie heads from a corvette (same year) will I get more horsepower at lower RPM or will I just blow giant fireballs out of my tailpipe?

-How tough is it to convert drums to discs on a 69 Cutlass?

Yeah, water + fuel = fucked.

1. If you're burning out your ground, then you need to get a bigger ground. How the fuck are you burning out your ground anyway?

2. Fuck if I know. Too many variables. But, on the S200 differentials you'll find in 300zx's, Imprezas and 240sx's, there's a 4:11 and 3:09. Going from the 4:11 to the 3:09 will net you 10-15 more ft/lbs and just an overall better torque curve. So I'm gonna venture a guess in between there? Is it worth it for the shorter final drive? Yes. I believe so. For performance reasons anyway, otherwise, don't do it.

3. You can do that? Wouldn't that fuck with the static volume? I dunno, does the deck line up? I don't know very much about domestic crap monsters. Also, I did say "GENERAL" automotive questions. Those are pretty specific, ass.

4. Drums to Disc are usually pretty difficult unless you have a donor hub and spindle assembly you can rob from. I don't know if there are any for that car, but if there aren't you can always just customize the brackets and hub. So I guess, very difficult.

Scrapper
3rd June 08, 03:49 PM
Yeah, water + fuel = fucked.

1. If you're burning out your ground, then you need to get a bigger ground. How the fuck are you burning out your ground anyway?

2. Fuck if I know. Too many variables. But, on the S200 differentials you'll find in 300zx's, Imprezas and 240sx's, there's a 4:11 and 3:09. Going from the 4:11 to the 3:09 will net you 10-15 more ft/lbs and just an overall better torque curve. So I'm gonna venture a guess in between there? Is it worth it for the shorter final drive? Yes. I believe so. For performance reasons anyway, otherwise, don't do it.

3. You can do that? Wouldn't that fuck with the static volume? I dunno, does the deck line up? I don't know very much about domestic crap monsters. Also, I did say "GENERAL" automotive questions. Those are pretty specific, ass.

4. Drums to Disc are usually pretty difficult unless you have a donor hub and spindle assembly you can rob from. I don't know if there are any for that car, but if there aren't you can always just customize the brackets and hub. So I guess, very difficult.

Trick questions. I love to test you, boy.

1: This was a tough one. The answer is bigger fuse. I crank 1300 amps. No bigger wire can handle that. It burns because the car originally came with a vacuum choke. The switched ignition was never intended to handle the added draw. The old-fashioned, shitty glass fuse burned but did not break the circuit (happens a lot with those things) and so the choke grounded to the switched ignition ground. Cue engine fire. Happened with my gauges once too.

2: this was easy. By definintion, a 4:11 will always give you more torque at the wheel than a 3:08. That's what the ratios are for. You should have had that one cold and given me a "WTF" look.

3:You almost got this one. If I keep the stock carb, I will blow fireballs. Otherwise, it's a very common swap in old muscle cars. 202 fuelies are awesome heads for high-compression, low rpm motors.

4: Easy if you have $. Hard if you don't. You either buy the kit, or start fabrication your own parts.


You did allright.

WarPhalange
4th June 08, 01:15 AM
How do I get a better parking spot at the local park & ride?

Sirc
4th June 08, 05:03 AM
How do I get a better parking spot at the local park & ride?

Actually, I do this all the time at school.

I took one of those road block signs, you know the ones that look like sandwich boards, off the side of the road. I cleaned it and sanded it and sprayed it white with a stencil that said, "RESERVED PARKING" that I made with a sheet of A5 paper and took off that annoying blinking thing.

I then took it to the student parking lot and waited for a good spot. I would park there, go to class and then as I was leaving, I put the sign there.

I really thought it wouldn't work, but the very next day, the sign was there again. This went on for about 3 weeks before someone finally took my sign.

MaverickZ
4th June 08, 09:45 AM
Trick questions. I love to test you, boy.

1: This was a tough one. The answer is bigger fuse. I crank 1300 amps. No bigger wire can handle that. It burns because the car originally came with a vacuum choke. The switched ignition was never intended to handle the added draw. The old-fashioned, shitty glass fuse burned but did not break the circuit (happens a lot with those things) and so the choke grounded to the switched ignition ground. Cue engine fire. Happened with my gauges once too.

2: this was easy. By definintion, a 4:11 will always give you more torque at the wheel than a 3:08. That's what the ratios are for. You should have had that one cold and given me a "WTF" look.

3:You almost got this one. If I keep the stock carb, I will blow fireballs. Otherwise, it's a very common swap in old muscle cars. 202 fuelies are awesome heads for high-compression, low rpm motors.

4: Easy if you have $. Hard if you don't. You either buy the kit, or start fabrication your own parts.


You did allright.
I can't really contribute, but this is the first thing I thought of when I saw this post.
http://www.lazydork.com/movies/mycousinvinny.jpg

SuperGuido
4th June 08, 02:28 PM
Sirc,

Two questions, and both are primarily opinion driven.

1. I need to trade in my German car for a gas efficient Japanese toy car.
-Toyota vs Honda...who wins?

2. This requires your opinion on trade-ins value.

My vehicle runs great, the engine is fine, and everything under the hood works like a charm. I've been disciplined about maintenance.

However, the trunk doesn't latch, the grill/hood has some superficial damage, the glove box is broken, etc...Basically, the cars runs at a KBB of "Good", but there is noticeable superficial damage.

Should I invest the $1k in getting my car into the "Excellent" KBB category, or save the cash and put myself at the dealer's mercy for trade-in value?

i.e. Does superficial damage mean shit (in your experience) during trade-ins?

SpringHeeledJack
4th June 08, 04:26 PM
Do you think it would unwise for a completely unexperienced person to to try to switch out the stock metal gas tank on a motorcycle with a higher capacity plastic off-road version? The aftermarket tank uses the stock mounts and petcock.


I mean, how hard can it be, right?

Tanhalen21
4th June 08, 08:38 PM
I'VE GOT GOATS IN MY GASKETS?

Sirc
6th June 08, 04:34 AM
Sirc,

Two questions, and both are primarily opinion driven.

1. I need to trade in my German car for a gas efficient Japanese toy car.
-Toyota vs Honda...who wins?

2. This requires your opinion on trade-ins value.

My vehicle runs great, the engine is fine, and everything under the hood works like a charm. I've been disciplined about maintenance.

However, the trunk doesn't latch, the grill/hood has some superficial damage, the glove box is broken, etc...Basically, the cars runs at a KBB of "Good", but there is noticeable superficial damage.

Should I invest the $1k in getting my car into the "Excellent" KBB category, or save the cash and put myself at the dealer's mercy for trade-in value?

i.e. Does superficial damage mean shit (in your experience) during trade-ins?

1. What are you going to get? A new honda or toyota?

If you're getting a new car, then go Honda, Toyota brought plants over to America and most of the cars are made here now. Americans suck at quality control while Honda still does stuff in the motherland. Plus, Toyota has no cars worth buying right now. If I could get a new daily driver commuter, I would get a Fit. I looooove the Fit.

2. Invest the money. You're better off selling it private party anyway. You'll get more private party the way your car sits than trading it in. What car do you have? Superficial damage is what they get you on. "Oh well these tires are low, paint is faded, scratch on the dash..." etc. etc. Every little thing lowers the value. Private party is the way to go. Autotrader, Cars.com, Craigslist, etc. People are more willing to suffer small superficial things. Dealerships aren't.


Do you think it would unwise for a completely unexperienced person to to try to switch out the stock metal gas tank on a motorcycle with a higher capacity plastic off-road version? The aftermarket tank uses the stock mounts and petcock.


I mean, how hard can it be, right?

My friend. I've seen people swap engines in Mid-engine cars who have never even done their own oil changes. You can do it. I know you can. If it uses the stock mounts and everything, then yeah, you'll be perfectly fine.

Just remember to keep your bolts in a bucket or a bowl of some kind. Have the right tools and you'll enjoy it. Don't force anything you don't have to and get some carb cleaner and WD40. <-- You'll thank me later.

Madgrenade
19th June 08, 08:16 AM
I have a question. Does 4000 rpm in fourth use the same amount of fuel as 4000 rpm in fifth? Thnx.

Sirc
20th June 08, 01:52 AM
I have a question. Does 4000 rpm in fourth use the same amount of fuel as 4000 rpm in fifth? Thnx.

It really depends on your gearing. What kind of car is it?

Neildo
20th June 08, 02:00 AM
yo dude i hear you're getting your new ride tomorrow. you bastard. (jealous)

Madgrenade
20th June 08, 07:53 AM
Its a bike. Honda CG 125

Sirc
20th June 08, 10:38 AM
yo dude i hear you're getting your new ride tomorrow. you bastard. (jealous)

I'll post pictures later today.

Dark Helmet
20th June 08, 09:13 PM
I've got more of a gas-consumption-in-a-race-question that you might be able to answer.

jvjim
21st June 08, 12:56 AM
The engine in my old man's '77 Flareside has frozen up (it's not the original, it's from a ford van, still the same f-150 engine though.) Where can I go to get free/cheap schematics and guides to get it running again? ALSO: it's been sitting up for about 1.5 years.

Sirc
21st June 08, 02:46 AM
I've got more of a gas-consumption-in-a-race-question that you might be able to answer.

Ask away.


Its a bike. Honda CG 125

Sorry I didn't back to you sooner.

Anyway, 4th at 4k has potential to use more gas than 5th at 4k. It's all dependent on your gearing and how much load you're putting on your car. Say you're doing 10mph and then you hit 4th at 4k, you'll be wasting a bunch of gas, but not as much as you would at 5th at 4k. Get my meaning?



The engine in my old man's '77 Flareside has frozen up (it's not the original, it's from a ford van, still the same f-150 engine though.) Where can I go to get free/cheap schematics and guides to get it running again? ALSO: it's been sitting up for about 1.5 years.

What do you mean by "frozen up?"

If you're looking for a manual, go to any auto parts store and find yourself a Chilton's manual. They're cheap and will serve you for life. They will tell you how to do everything from changing a bulb to rebuilding the entire motor.

jvjim
21st June 08, 03:00 AM
What do you mean by "frozen up?"

If you're looking for a manual, go to any auto parts store and find yourself a Chilton's manual. They're cheap and will serve you for life. They will tell you how to do everything from changing a bulb to rebuilding the entire motor.

What this guy (http://au.answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20070814201453AAYr3eC) is talking about. He had an old Chilton manual around here somewhere, but it's lost. I just didn't feel like buying a new one.

danno
21st June 08, 07:26 AM
i want a car that is medium sized, fuel efficient and hellishly reliable. i don't give much of a damn about anything else. any recommendations?

Dark Helmet
21st June 08, 05:23 PM
Ask away.A while back I was watching some sort of Machine vs Machine show and in this program they had a Corvette vs a Ferrari.Maybe you watched it?

Well,anyway, I was watching it and they had both cars sprinting around the Laguna Seca track and don't you know it.The Corvette did a better time.I forget what.

So my reaction was "well yeah!Of course!I'ts got a huge gas gussling 7 litre engine.But it couldn't possibly win in an endurance race".And this is where it leaves me scratching my head a bit.I took a closer look at each car's spec's.That engine in the corvette is a V8 7L while the Ferrari was I believe the 575M.Which has a 5.7 L V12.

So on paper wouldn't the Corvette win an endurance race like let's say a 12 hour race just by the simple fact that while it may have less horsepower to begin with it has to pit less to re-fuel?

Dark Helmet
21st June 08, 05:25 PM
i want a car that is medium sized, fuel efficient and hellishly reliable. i don't give much of a damn about anything else. any recommendations?
Toyota Prius,
Suzuki sx7,
and even a Ford Focus is reliable now.

danno
21st June 08, 09:37 PM
i heard the prius wan't so reliable after about 100,000km?

out of those, the ford focus looks good to me. the prius uses half the fuel, but the focus is half the price, which would save me a lot of money. however, the prius may keep its value better in the years to come, as oil gets more expensive...

Neildo
22nd June 08, 02:41 AM
ok so i actually have a legitimate question.

vehicle: 1994 GMC safari AWD

Problem type: Electrical

the passenger side power window doesn't work. replaced switches and checked wiring with the multimeter and getting the 12 volts but the damn thing still isn't working. tried swapping out the window motor with a brand new factory replacement but still doesn't work, then tested the original window motor on the drivers side to find out it still works. i was thinking maybe the connection to the motor might be corroded or something but it's fine. total fucking mystery.

Sirc
22nd June 08, 03:55 AM
A while back I was watching some sort of Machine vs Machine show and in this program they had a Corvette vs a Ferrari.Maybe you watched it?

Well,anyway, I was watching it and they had both cars sprinting around the Laguna Seca track and don't you know it.The Corvette did a better time.I forget what.

So my reaction was "well yeah!Of course!I'ts got a huge gas gussling 7 litre engine.But it couldn't possibly win in an endurance race".And this is where it leaves me scratching my head a bit.I took a closer look at each car's spec's.That engine in the corvette is a V8 7L while the Ferrari was I believe the 575M.Which has a 5.7 L V12.

So on paper wouldn't the Corvette win an endurance race like let's say a 12 hour race just by the simple fact that while it may have less horsepower to begin with it has to pit less to re-fuel?

First. Laguna Seca was pretty much made for the Corvette.

It really depends. If we're talking stock for stock endurance racing, it will really depend on the driver. A good driver will pace himself to conserve tire and gas. I mean if it's just the two of them, just one taking a pit will cost him severe distance and time loss. They both guzzle up about the same amount of fuel in the end on a race track, just as pretty much any other car ~7mpg. Having more or less pistons really doesn't affect fuel mileage as much as load and gearing do.


i want a car that is medium sized, fuel efficient and hellishly reliable. i don't give much of a damn about anything else. any recommendations?


i heard the prius wan't so reliable after about 100,000km?

out of those, the ford focus looks good to me. the prius uses half the fuel, but the focus is half the price, which would save me a lot of money. however, the prius may keep its value better in the years to come, as oil gets more expensive...


Toyota Corolla
Toyota Yaris
Honda Fit
Honda Civic SI
Mini Cooper S (reliable as hell, but will cost you an arm and a leg to repair)
BMW 3 Series (reliable as hell, but will cost you an arm and a leg to repair)

The Focus is pretty cool, but I would only get the Focus RS or the Focus ST. I just have a few hesitations for Ford wiring bullshit. Fuuuuccckkkk that.


ok so i actually have a legitimate question.

vehicle: 1994 GMC safari AWD

Problem type: Electrical

the passenger side power window doesn't work. replaced switches and checked wiring with the multimeter and getting the 12 volts but the damn thing still isn't working. tried swapping out the window motor with a brand new factory replacement but still doesn't work, then tested the original window motor on the drivers side to find out it still works. i was thinking maybe the connection to the motor might be corroded or something but it's fine. total fucking mystery.

That sounds like it's a problem in the actual wiring itself. Sounds like you have a short somewhere in the wiring. If it were me, I'd use a multimeter to test from the switch down to the window motor every few inches until I found the short. If there isn't one, then I'd cut and recrimp the connectors with new leads.


What this guy (http://au.answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20070814201453AAYr3eC) is talking about. He had an old Chilton manual around here somewhere, but it's lost. I just didn't feel like buying a new one.

Ah, ok.

Yeah if it won't start or turn over, and it's because the pistons have seized, then I would blast that mother fucker down with some diesel, then some CLR, and then some anti-rust shit. Whatever I could find, and let it sit over night and then pump it out and see if it will go.

If it doesn't, put a new motor in. Easier and less expensive and time consuming than rebuilding a block. Ugggh.

Madgrenade
6th October 08, 07:53 AM
SirC (Or other knowledgeable person, unlees knowledgeable in some other area, like grapes, or biscuits, in which case you can save it.)

My GF's old man recently picked up a used bike (Yamaha YBR 125), needed a few cosmetic repairs, for a bargain price as her first bike.

Anyway I was giving it a good looking over today and found that the battery electrolyte level was well below the level, the tops of the cells were exposed and slightly corroded. So I duly obtained some distilled water and topped up the battery to the required level.
Cos it wasn't starting that great, I thought I'd give it a bit of a warmup in neutral to give the battery some charge. After a few minutes varying between lo (3000) to high (7000) I smelt a strange smell and, to my horror saw acrid grey smoke coming from around the engine.

I immediately turned it off and started looking for the source. Though I could not positively identify it as the smoke was from an ambiguous source I belive it was issuing from the battery breather.

Is it normal for a recently topped battery to smoke like that as it sheds corrosion (My optimistic thought) or is there a risk of an onboard fire, or be it from another source entirely? Should a battery in that condition be replaced? Would appreciate some advice. Thnx

Sirc
7th October 08, 05:22 AM
General rule of thumb, never try to just recharge or refill a battery, just replace it. Those things are always a bitch.

Madgrenade
10th October 08, 08:41 AM
I'm now beginning to suspect I overheated it giving it high revs in neutral. Does this cause permanent, serious, damage? Anything I should look out for?

Sirc
11th October 08, 01:02 PM
The only real problem you could've created would be eating your headgasket up alive. But, I really doubt it.

If it's that much of a problem, you might want to invest in just getting a new motor and battery, it really can't be more than a few hundred dollars.

nihilist
12th October 08, 12:46 AM
What grade of antifreeze would be appropriate to use in a 1969 Corvair?

nihilist
12th October 08, 01:18 AM
I have a '64 Buick Skylark. How do I adjust the positraction?

nihilist
12th October 08, 01:31 AM
There is no spoon.

Sirc
13th October 08, 11:53 PM
What grade of antifreeze would be appropriate to use in a 1969 Corvair?

Actually, I can't stress this enough, but I use Water + 1 bottle of water wetter for every 2 gallons of water that goes into the system for maximum cooling and keeping the water from freezing or boiling at normal water temperatures. It's very awesome.


I have a '64 Buick Skylark. How do I adjust the positraction?

Is it mechanical or is it a viscous limited slip differential? I don't know much about them. But it doesn't matter, because I'm almost certain that the differentials are non-adjustable anyway. I don't see an American company putting in adjustable differentials in their cars in the early 60's.

nihilist
14th October 08, 12:15 AM
Actually, I can't stress this enough, but I use Water + 1 bottle of water wetter for every 2 gallons of water that goes into the system for maximum cooling and keeping the water from freezing or boiling at normal water temperatures. It's very awesome.

The Corvair is air cooled.




Is it mechanical or is it a viscous limited slip differential? I don't know much about them. But it doesn't matter, because I'm almost certain that the differentials are non-adjustable anyway. I don't see an American company putting in adjustable differentials in their cars in the early 60's.

6DrR7icfrds

rsobrien
14th October 08, 09:20 AM
Actually, I can't stress this enough, but I use Water + 1 bottle of water wetter for every 2 gallons of water that goes into the system for maximum cooling and keeping the water from freezing or boiling at normal water temperatures. It's very awesome.

.

Not that I ever have a problem overheating but everyone raves about Water Wetter.

Does it really improve cooling that much?

What exactly is Water Wetter?

Sun Wukong
14th October 08, 10:04 AM
How many midgets can fit into a Midget? Answer me that one!

nihilist
14th October 08, 10:44 AM
More if you blend them first.

nihilist
14th October 08, 06:46 PM
There is no spoon.

nihilist
14th October 08, 07:02 PM
Spooning leads to forking.

Sirc
20th October 08, 03:32 AM
I know absolutely nothing about Corvairs except that they're bastard american cars with shitty suspension.


Not that I ever have a problem overheating but everyone raves about Water Wetter.

Does it really improve cooling that much?

What exactly is Water Wetter?

Water Wetter is an additive thrown into cars that use only water to cool their motors. I use it in my cars because water has better cooling properties than anti-freeze. Water wetter raises the boiling point of water and it lowers the freezing temperature just a bit, but transfers heat much better because it doesn't use anti-freeze, just water.

Water transfers heat much better than 50/50 anti-freeze/water. Water Wetter just lubes the seals and keeps your water from boiling too soon.

If you live in a place where water freezes, obviously, don't do this and stick with anti-freeze/water.

nihilist
20th October 08, 11:35 AM
Wait. There is a place in the world where water doesn't freeze?

If you live in Hawaii you could get your car to below 60 degrees by driving around in a meat locker.

Kiko
20th October 08, 12:32 PM
I just came back from getting my oil changed on my little subaru. Also got the transmission fluid changed cause it was dirty or something.

Here's my question. My car is a 90-something... I think 95 or 93. How often does it need what changed and can I trust the guy at the expressway place when he tells me it needs something?
They said I needed the coolant stuff flushed and the oil in the AWD boxes changed.
They USED to have a record of when I'd been there, but the chain got re-invented/bought and they purged their computer records, so I may well have had all this done at some point...

Also, how bad/complicated is a slight leak in the oil pan gasket ... thingie?

Yes, I don't know cars... I killed a perfectly good Corolla by not getting oil changes....

Help?

Sirc
20th October 08, 03:28 PM
Wait. There is a place in the world where water doesn't freeze? Does that mean they can't have freezers or frozen food because it doesn't work? I want to learn more about this place.

Sorry here in California where everything is perfect and clean, we don't have winters where water freezes. Well at least where there's civilization.

Sirc
20th October 08, 03:37 PM
I just came back from getting my oil changed on my little subaru. Also got the transmission fluid changed cause it was dirty or something.

Here's my question. My car is a 90-something... I think 95 or 93. How often does it need what changed and can I trust the guy at the expressway place when he tells me it needs something?
They said I needed the coolant stuff flushed and the oil in the AWD boxes changed.
They USED to have a record of when I'd been there, but the chain got re-invented/bought and they purged their computer records, so I may well have had all this done at some point...

Also, how bad/complicated is a slight leak in the oil pan gasket ... thingie?

Yes, I don't know cars... I killed a perfectly good Corolla by not getting oil changes....

Help?

What kind of Subaru do you have?

First, I'd change the rear differential oil about every other 2 oil changes. That's just me though, I'm pretty obsessive about my fluid changes though. Most people do them every 10,000 miles or so. The rear differential is probably what he's talking about. It's the little mechanical pumpkin between your rear tires that the axles go into. That has differential gear fluid that needs to replaced every once in a while.

Coolant should be flushed every 30,000 miles or once every year. I do mine about twice a year, water + water wetter in the spring-summer and then 70/30 water/radiator fluid in the winter.

Don't ever trust a mechanic at a shop. Ever. Always ask someone who knows about cars before you do anything on your car by a mechanic.

Oil Pan gaskets on Subarus, depending on the subaru, is a bitch. On most Subaru cars, you have to pull down the subframe, which involves removing both engine mounts, then dropping the subframe, and then replacing the oil pan "gasket" which isn't really a gasket, it's just RTV. Subaru uses RTV instead of an oil pan gasket. Which is gay.

nihilist
20th October 08, 03:40 PM
I just came back from getting my oil changed on my little subaru. Also got the transmission fluid changed cause it was dirty or something.

Here's my question. My car is a 90-something... I think 95 or 93. How often does it need what changed and can I trust the guy at the expressway place when he tells me it needs something?
They said I needed the coolant stuff flushed and the oil in the AWD boxes changed.
They USED to have a record of when I'd been there, but the chain got re-invented/bought and they purged their computer records, so I may well have had all this done at some point...

Also, how bad/complicated is a slight leak in the oil pan gasket ... thingie?

Yes, I don't know cars... I killed a perfectly good Corolla by not getting oil changes....

Help? Subaru has a scheduled maintenance (http://www.cars101.com/subaru/subaru_maintenance.html) site.

You could miss a scheduled flush and it wouldn't make much of a difference in the overall life of your cooling system.
As far as the AWD boxes I would be less likely to overlook that maintenance as the metal that wears off the gears floats around in the fluid and acts as an abrasive.

Your receipts should have the itemized repairs on them.
Always keep the reciepts for your car maintenance.

nihilist
20th October 08, 03:43 PM
What kind of Subaru do you have?

First, I'd change the rear differential oil about every other 2 oil changes. That's just me though, I'm pretty obsessive about my fluid changes though. Most people do them every 10,000 miles or so. The rear differential is probably what he's talking about. It's the little mechanical pumpkin between your rear tires that the axles go into. That has differential gear fluid that needs to replaced every once in a while.

Coolant should be flushed every 30,000 miles or once every year. I do mine about twice a year, water + water wetter in the spring-summer and then 70/30 water/radiator fluid in the winter.

Don't ever trust a mechanic at a shop. Ever. Always ask someone who knows about cars before you do anything on your car by a mechanic.

Oil Pan gaskets on Subarus, depending on the subaru, is a bitch. On most Subaru cars, you have to pull down the subframe, which involves removing both engine mounts, then dropping the subframe, and then replacing the oil pan "gasket" which isn't really a gasket, it's just RTV. Subaru uses RTV instead of an oil pan gasket. Which is gay.

What's this about a rear differential?

What are your auto-repair credentials?

Sirc
20th October 08, 04:09 PM
Subaru has a scheduled maintenance (http://www.cars101.com/subaru/subaru_maintenance.html) site.

You could miss a scheduled flush and it wouldn't make much of a difference in the overall life of your cooling system.
As far as the AWD boxes I would be less likely to overlook that maintenance as the metal that wears off the gears floats around in the fluid and acts as an abrasive.

Your receipts should have the itemized repairs on them.
Always keep the reciepts for your car maintenance.

Depending on where you live, how hard you drive the car, etc. The cooling system flush will need different flush intervals. I drive my car pretty hard, I change out my fluids more often. As well as other shit like the clutch, oil, brakes, rotors, tires, valve adjustments, spark plugs, etc. etc.


What's this about a rear differential?

What are your auto-repair credentials?

Um... what?

Subaru AWD systems use either the R180 or the R160, and the STi's use the R200's differentials.

What do you guys mean by the AWD boxes? Are you talking about the transfer case? Or the transmission or the rear differential?

I'm assuming the rear differential because the transmission houses the center differential and the front differential as well as the transfer case.

nihilist
20th October 08, 04:31 PM
I'm just giving you a hard time Sirc.

There is a real big problem with high mileage Subarus with the rear clutch failing. if it does it costs about $1,500 to replace.

Kiko
20th October 08, 05:35 PM
It's an Impreza. It wasn't a Corolla that I killed it was a Camry. It has like 120K miles on it - I don't go very far ever. It's to-from work which is 5 miles tops and shopping. No highway miles unless I absolutely MUST.

Yes, the differential boxy things. Unlike Ms. Vito, I have no mechanics in my family, never dated one or nothin'.

It's an automatic, btw. I can't drive stick. Once drove dad's VW around the block in first while he sat home and listened... in pain.

My husband things I go to this place wearing a sign that says "do extra work and charge me lots".

I appreciate you guys helping!

Dark Helmet
20th October 08, 06:00 PM
My car is a 90-something... lol!

Sirc
21st October 08, 04:45 AM
I'm just giving you a hard time Sirc.

There is a real big problem with high mileage Subarus with the rear clutch failing. if it does it costs about $1,500 to replace.

That doesn't sound right at all. The R160, R180 and the R200 were all used in cars from the early 70's. Datsun 510's, Datsun 240z, 260z, 280z, 300zx, Subarus, and most japanese cars with rear wheel drive. My rear differential has 210k miles on it and I've put it through fucking hell and back in the last 1000 miles. It's doing fine.

R160's are everywhere and cheap as fuck. I can pick one up for $40, install it and put 1.5 quarts in it for $6.


It's an Impreza. It wasn't a Corolla that I killed it was a Camry. It has like 120K miles on it - I don't go very far ever. It's to-from work which is 5 miles tops and shopping. No highway miles unless I absolutely MUST.

Yes, the differential boxy things. Unlike Ms. Vito, I have no mechanics in my family, never dated one or nothin'.

It's an automatic, btw. I can't drive stick. Once drove dad's VW around the block in first while he sat home and listened... in pain.

My husband things I go to this place wearing a sign that says "do extra work and charge me lots".

I appreciate you guys helping!

OH!

I have an impreza! It's a 2000 2.5RS.

Don't ever listen to the mechanic he's gonna try to screw you. Auto, eh? If it were my car, I'd spend the money to flush all the fluids out, it's gonna be like $200ish. It shouldn't be any more than that. But then I'd post here or something, then you could reference it later.

nihilist
21st October 08, 09:41 AM
That doesn't sound right at all. The R160, R180 and the R200 were all used in cars from the early 70's. Datsun 510's, Datsun 240z, 260z, 280z, 300zx, Subarus, and most japanese cars with rear wheel drive. My rear differential has 210k miles on it and I've put it through fucking hell and back in the last 1000 miles. It's doing fine.

R160's are everywhere and cheap as fuck. I can pick one up for $40, install it and put 1.5 quarts in it for $6.





We are talking about Subaru AWD electro-hydraulic clutch pack.

nihilist
21st October 08, 09:42 AM
Maybe you should stick to ballet.

Sirc
21st October 08, 11:08 AM
We are talking about Subaru AWD electro-hydraulic clutch pack.

Clutch pack for what? The rear differential? The VLSD?

I still don't see it being $1500 to fix because the VLSD is cheap to replace as well, it's like $200 at the most to get another one off of any Impreza, Legacy, Outback that got optioned with the limited-slip package. There are thousands and thousands of those by the droves.

Then the labor is no more than an hour to take that thing out. Whoever is charging that much is a criminal.

Madgrenade
11th March 09, 08:40 AM
Why do new tyres have those little rubber bobbles sticking out of them all over?

elipson
15th March 09, 12:01 AM
They make the car go faster. Just like speed holes.

danno
15th March 09, 02:38 AM
pretty sure it's the leftover bits from the rubber being injected in to the mould.

Madgrenade
17th March 09, 06:35 AM
O.k This ones super serious and of dire import. How do I go about repairing cracked/ broken plastic fairing?